The journey to Koya san

The estimated 500,000 graves in Japan's largest cemetery include the tombs of important historical figures. The most famous is Kobo Daishi, whose mausoleum is here. It is also the resting place of warlord Oda Nobunaga, and the monks Dogen, Honen, Nichiren and Shinran. War memorials and even some outlandish company tombs for major Japanese corporations (Kirin Beer, Nissan, Toyota) are also in evidence.

There are guided night walks in English through Okunoin. Tickets can be bought at Eko-in Temple and begin at 7.15pm very night, depending on the availability of a monk to guide your group, and the weather.

How to get there.

Koyasan is an approximately 90 minute train journey from Osaka Namba Station by Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi Station and then cable car to Koyasan.

Limited Express trains take about 45 minutes from Namba to Hashimoto and then change to a local train to Gokurakubashi Station (about 40 minutes).

From Wakayama to Koyasan take the JR Wakayama Line to Hashimoto, then change to the Nankai Koya Line.

From Kyoto and Kobe to Koyasan it is quicker to go via Namba Station in Osaka. There are Kintetsu Line trains to Namba Station from Nagoya taking 2 hours or take the shinkansen to Shin-Osaka Station (50 minutes) and then change to the Midosuji subway line for connections south to Namba.

If you wish to use the Japan Rail Pass for most of your journey from Kyoto, take a JR train to Osaka Station and the Osaka Loop Line to Shin-Imamiya, then transfer to the Nankai Koya Line at Shin-Imamiya.

From Gokurakubashi Station the cable car takes five minutes to Koyasan. It costs 510 yen one way. On weekdays the first cable cars are at 5.27am with the last at 10.42pm in both directions.